A posting which plainly only you could have done, it also injects sustained notes of exuberant virility which we do not associate with your style. The colonnade with the surfer striding on the beach, the rail closing, the shocking Chevrolet, the bearded enthusiast emerging from the surf, are definitely a notch more individualist than your earlier surfing work, which had depicted the same sensibility from the perspective of camaraderie. I note the dedication to the now-famous child in connection with this, and the audacious closing motto.
You're right again. There is a reason for this individualism, all the camarades are gone back to their homes and I surf alone. However, in the world of surf, this particular spot is famous for it's huge wave. Not for the faint at heart...hence the virility. Note that the bearded surfer is not in his prime, he surfs a classic longboard, without a leash. Something every devoted surfer will notice with great respect.
I think Tenn and Owen left perhaps an incoherent message here last night. . .
They looked very carefully, examining the waves, the boards, the different shots.
Surfers never run out of conversation about these aspects...as many words as there are waves.
And I of course am brought back to my homeland, the colour of the sea and sky, the little benches of repose to watch the sea , the utter respect for the sea...and it's moods.
What Euskadi has in common with northern california...the cold water and utter devotion, despite it.
I've been taking photographs for twenty years now, mostly for magazines and books. This blog is a diary of some sort. It speaks of the things I do,
see or fancy in my daily life. Unless specified, all the photographs here are my own. Enjoy your visit and if you feel like it, leave a comment.
Ce blog est en anglais et je m'en excuse aupres de mes visiteurs francais. Je l'ai voulu ainsi afin qu'il puisse etre lu par le plus grand nombre mais naturellement vos commentaires sont les bienvenus.
6 Comments:
A posting which plainly only you could have done, it also injects sustained notes of exuberant virility which we do not associate with your style. The colonnade with the surfer striding on the beach, the rail closing, the shocking Chevrolet, the bearded enthusiast emerging from the surf, are definitely a notch more individualist than your earlier surfing work, which had depicted the same sensibility from the perspective of camaraderie. I note the dedication to the now-famous child in connection with this, and the audacious closing motto.
You're right again. There is a reason for this individualism, all the camarades are gone back to their homes and I surf alone. However, in the world of surf, this particular spot is famous for it's huge wave. Not for the faint at heart...hence the virility. Note that the bearded surfer is not in his prime, he surfs a classic longboard, without a leash. Something every devoted surfer will notice with great respect.
We have a saying for such pursuits: "be careful out there among the English." You're a genius.
I think Tenn and Owen left perhaps an incoherent message here last night. . .
They looked very carefully, examining the waves, the boards, the different shots.
Surfers never run out of conversation about these aspects...as many words as there are waves.
And I of course am brought back to my homeland, the colour of the sea and sky, the little benches of repose to watch the sea , the utter respect for the sea...and it's moods.
What Euskadi has in common with northern california...the cold water and utter devotion, despite it.
xox
B
The coherence of it all will come in due time as youth must go through it's own course.
Ca donne envie ces moments ! et cet oeil ... EB
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