A posting which plainly only you could have done, it also injects sustained notes of exuberant virility which we do not associate with your style. The colonnade with the surfer striding on the beach, the rail closing, the shocking Chevrolet, the bearded enthusiast emerging from the surf, are definitely a notch more individualist than your earlier surfing work, which had depicted the same sensibility from the perspective of camaraderie. I note the dedication to the now-famous child in connection with this, and the audacious closing motto.
You're right again. There is a reason for this individualism, all the camarades are gone back to their homes and I surf alone. However, in the world of surf, this particular spot is famous for it's huge wave. Not for the faint at heart...hence the virility. Note that the bearded surfer is not in his prime, he surfs a classic longboard, without a leash. Something every devoted surfer will notice with great respect.
We have a saying for such pursuits: "be careful out there among the English." You're a genius.
I think Tenn and Owen left perhaps an incoherent message here last night. . .They looked very carefully, examining the waves, the boards, the different shots.Surfers never run out of conversation about these aspects...as many words as there are waves. And I of course am brought back to my homeland, the colour of the sea and sky, the little benches of repose to watch the sea , the utter respect for the sea...and it's moods.What Euskadi has in common with northern california...the cold water and utter devotion, despite it.xoxB
The coherence of it all will come in due time as youth must go through it's own course.
Ca donne envie ces moments ! et cet oeil ... EB
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