I'm always impressed by those exposures, like the 2nd from the top, which capture the wave as a rolling, glistening slice of marine flesh. I don't see the setting as an abbatoir or as a site of violence but I wonder if that visual moment ever registers in the limbs astride the board. I know that in swimming one can be aware of it.
Every year, people drown themselves in these waters, so it's not to be taken lightly but with a little technique, ducking under the wave, it can be handled. It always amazes me to think such that a mass of water, such power, such pure force, can lick the land in such a delicate way.
Post a Comment